QUEEN VICTORIA SPRINGS & MORE CLUB TRIP

August 2025: 12 days – 10 cars – 11 people

The gang at East Gnammas

Queen Victoria Springs, the oasis in the desert, well that’s how we painted it for all who had not been there.

Starting out from Merredin, we headed north from Bodallin along the Evanston Rd through to the Goldfields Hwy up to Laverton.  Following Lake Rason, we then headed south through Plumridge Lakes, then down to Queen Victoria Spring Nature reserve, then making our way down to the railway line through the abandoned mission Cundeelee.

There was easy gravel roads, there was washed out tracks, there was winding tracks, there was rocks, there was sandy tracks and the beautiful red and yellow sand dunes of the desert, and of course there was some scratchy tracks on our exploration.  Beautiful blue skies for most of our trip, one day with flies, what perfect conditions!

Here’s how the journey unfolded:

Off to Bodallin and headed north finding our way past Bullfinch onto the Evanston Rd, first stop Cowine Soak.

After that we headed for East Gnammas, of which some of us had been before, but showing the rest of the crew the very well constructed rockhole and wandering the rock outcrop to view the small dams made in 1929.

Left camp and headed east to check out Great Wall Gnammas (not official name, named by our trip leader when she found them – I’m sure they do have an official name but we don’t know it).  Spotted 2 Tawny Frogmouths fly up from the floor to a nearby tree, no-one was able to see them, because yes they blend in very well.  After a wander around the Great Wall Gnammas, we headed to where the track ends at a breakaway with a great view across the Helena Aurora Ranges.  This was a great track, slow and winding, lots of washouts to navigate.  We made our way back to the Evanston Rd and headed north, the road had seen some rain and was super slippery in areas.  Our once clean Perth cars were no longer, all gaining a bit of height with the mud on tyres and some sound attenuation from the mud stuck fast to underneath.  We stopped in at Marda dam, a once covered dam for lunch

We meandered north again to the Menzies road, enjoying the forever changing vegetation, the odd spot of wildflowers and beautiful views at times.  Once turning onto the Menzies road, we set up camp with again a great fire and lots of loud campfire convo.

Heading to the Johnson Soak next – a government covered well at the start of the track into the Helena Aurora Range. The roof has half collapsed. An hour later we pulled over for smoko and found a second very unusual covered well/tank.  Then on to Laverton, replenishing all stocks and fuel and headed off to find our next camp before we hit the Lake Rason Rd.

Freezing cold night, frost and ice on tents and swags.  After breakfast, packing, and the morning briefing, we departed, for Mallee Hen Rock Hole.  After 60km of indifferent track we arrive at 11:00am to explore the surrounds and view the rock hole looking for the carved initials of Frank Hann.  Our trip leader offered up a prize for who found the inscription, Sue found it, trip leader still owes Sue a banana! 

Continuing on, we decided to head to the top of Mt Luck,  we slowly made our way up to the top what a view. The group paused at 12:45pm for lunch below at Point Bott which looks across to Mt Luck. The stop provided another opportunity to explore the area, with particular attention given to the naturally formed striated elevated concavities that define the landscape. 

We attempted to get into Tiger Trap Gully with a promise of an amazing waterhole from our trip leader, however she got confused with TTG and Chick Rockhole.  After the track into TTG was very washed out and she needed guidance to get out after getting herself into a rather sticky situation, time was getting away from us and sadly it was decided time was against us and we’d have to give Chick Rockhole a miss on this trip….next time.

After two hours on challenging tracks covering 40km with several photo stops and regrouping, another suitable campsite at 4:00pm. The day having involved exploration of natural and scientific features, assisted by our knowledgeable geotechnical companions.

After enjoying hot food, sharing ports, and discussing perspectives, we retire for another cold night, warmed by the campfire beneath a clear, starry sky.

7 Millers Shack

Next morning, the first point of interest, after only 17kms, was a track leading to Toppin Hill on our left.  Trip leader elected to hold the convoy on the track while she checked it out, but reported back that the track was a little unsuitable due to our time limitations, so we would have to miss this time. 

At 9.30am we pulled in to visit “7 Millers Shack”, a bush camp established by a group of shooters as a getaway. The name comes from 7 millimetre, being a bullet calibre. The camp had a well-built living quarter with water and power, a large collection of memorabilia on the walls and an upstairs balcony to take in the view.

Barry played a beautiful drive off the purpose-built golf tee, after Sue had retrieved some golf balls from out on the lake.  We spent about an hour looking at the shack and surrounds.  As it should be with other people’s property, it was a case of look and enjoy but leave it as you found it.

One of two mobs of camels seen on the trip gave some excitement as we travelled.  Although they are a pest and do damage the environment, it is always interesting to see these animals surviving out in this harsh country.  We took a track into the lake and we stopped for lunch, this was our hottest day of the trip, temp got to 31 degrees.

The remainder of the day was spent just enjoying the track and the surrounds, the colours of the changing soils and the variety of types of vegetation.

An early camp and another fire that could be seen from the Space Station, ended a memorable day.  This was our communal roast night, and everyone contributed to a wonderful meal of roast lamb & pork with roast veggies, and dessert of apple crumble and cream.  Oh and of course Port! 

As night fell a row of lights was seen through the trees, trip leader checked her GAIA maps which showed Tropicana mine was 16.6km south of us.  It was a warm day and a warm night!

A short stroll up a rise behind our camp was possible before departing. We were greeted by the view of the Tropicana Gold mine and their wind farm.  We head off to find Bartlett Bluff. The track in gradually disappears having our trip leader out of her steed and finding our way.  Another great windy, bumpy, scratchy track.  The bluff located, a single gamma hole, dry and unable to find the ‘H’ placed there by early explorer.

Most of the track travelled today was easy going, with a few washouts and rocky patches. Those up front enjoyed kangaroo sightings and 3 bush Turkeys about 30 mtr of the road. Along the way wildflowers popped out giving us the occasional colourful display.  The earlier part of the day we drove through spinifex plains which became medium bush by the end of the day. Today we made it to our second group of lakes, Plumridge Lakes.  Another enjoyable day exploring before setting up camp, sitting round a roaring fire and handling the truth lightly.

Tonight’s camp looked to have been a former Sandalwood cutters camp from way back when, finding remnants of their tools etc and wood chips. 

The next morning we headed out to the Plumridge Lakes viewing platform.  However, the crossing of the lake was a little too damp for 10 vehicles to risk crossing.   Whilst the herd of camels we were observing were making short shift of the soft lake surface it was certainly no place for a troop of Land Rovers loaded up with port and fruit cake and good sense prevailed.  We enjoyed a lovely view from an alternative viewpoint / camping area and a drop of morning tea.

Further journeying back towards the Cable Haul road brought with it the delights of a herd of camels with their bountiful young.  In due course trip leader selected another wonderful camp site and the evening festivities of a pasta and bolognese meal, with all the trimmings, were generously provided with military efficient by John to a hungry and appreciative cohort of travellers. 

Another very cold night, ice on tents, cars, swags.  But when you’re on the edge of the desert surrounded by its beauty, the cold is a fine thing, nothing can spoil your morning.

We headed off along the PNC Baseline Rd, whilst there was a warning sign of mine in 73km and the road was closed, trip leader figured that the mine was 73, the Nippon Hwy that we needed was 70k away, so it shouldn’t be a problem.  She would later find out, she was a little bit wrong with those figures!

A very, very straight road and pretty good one for most part, we came along a fire rake in the middle of the road, didn’t look like it had been there long, even though there wasn’t much sign of traffic on this track.  A bit further up we came across and old camp where toilets had been installed, complete with toilet lids, lime and privacy.  Someone had left a gazebo, still in the bag, good condition IBC and a few other bits and pieces, we couldn’t really work out the reason for this camp.

Queen Victoria Springs

Eventually we came to a “reduce speed” sign, not much chance of speeding on that track.  We got to the mines boundary, called up on Channel 40 and liaised with the guy from the site, who after about 10-15 minutes came out to us and escorted us through the mining area to another locked gate on the southern stretch of the Nippon Hwy, Tony our escort bid us farewell and wished us a happy holiday. 

We are now making our way through Queen Victoria Spring Nature reserve to Streich Mound.  A plaque in honour of Victor Streich the geologist on the Elder Expedition 1891-92.  We had to cross a few good sized dunes to get here.  Some stretched their legs walking to the plaque along the dune ridge, some walked from the base of the dune and others attempted to reach the top by car and walked the last few feet to the plaque.   We later made camp no far from here between the dunes, not the best of camp spots, due to the time and vegetation we were travelling through, but we had good amount of firewood, and the right amount of area for 10 cars to set up their little home aways from home.  Another cold night with clear skies.

Queen Victoria Springs here we come – road pretty good with a few wash outs to negotiate. Arriving at Victoria Springs we all alighted to explore the supposed wonderful spring!  Not quite what we were expecting – a glorious clay pan in a large circular depression.  Obviously, no water.  Gavin came to the rescue with his shovel.  People were guessing how many shovels full of soil would have to be removed to see water.  Guesses ranged from 9 to 300 – trip leader guessed 10 and was spot on. Water was visible trickling into the hole – would have to wait awhile for it to be clean enough to drink. – no one tried. The soil was mostly clay down at that depth (800mm).  Then we headed off for abandoned Cundeelee, Evangelical mission & school from 1949 to 1982, then most of the residents moved to Coonana.

Whilst we’d stopped to admire and old wrecked truck, we took a photograph of Gavin driving one of the many wrecks on the way.  At this time, sadly Hugh received a sizeable stick puncture his right-hand front tyre just before arriving at the abandoned Cundeelee.  We lunched there then headed off to find a track that would take us to some rockholes on the map.  However sadly after a few kms and chain sawing and moving dead wood off the track, it was decided to give this a miss, we were now very time poor as some had to leave for Perth the next day.  So we back tracked and towards the transcontinental railway crossing a very dry Ponton Creek on the westly track out of Cundeelee to the south of Emu rocks.  Another great site to camp for the night, just far enough away from the railway line to ensure we slept well with no disturbances. 

Next morning at the trans railway line, we said goodbye to 4 vehicles.

You could tell we were heading home, the dark clouds came over and stayed with us all day.  Cool, but no rain really to speak of.  The remaining cars, then followed trip leader on her journey of points of interest north of the railway line. 

First stop Anketell Dam, the track into the dam was enjoyable, slow and washed out in areas.  Just before the dam we stopped at an unusual looking tank system.  We had morning smoko at the dam, this dam was massive, some money had been sunk into this dam, with an overflow dam below it and a pipe between them.  There was quite a few healthy beef hanging around, enjoying watching us as we explored.  We continued on the station tracks to Babington Rockholes.  Again nice slow tracks.  Babington had a few rockholes on it that were covered by old railway sleepers.  All had water, but a bit green and mucky.  Driving along the track we came across a rather random sign, nothing in the area it was pointing to, we couldn’t decipher what it said and Gavin found an old wheel brace under it. 

Lunch at the Dingo Rocks.  A windmill here along with another largeish dam alongside the rock outcrop.  This outcrop had a fairly poor attempt for a rock wall around it to divert the water.  Atop of it was where someone we think had an attempt at a romantic night out, star gazing, a couch had been carried up to the highest point, a small fire nearby, empty stubbies (mostly broken, grrr) and a stack of oyster shells.  We hope they enjoyed their time up there.  Perfect night sky viewing.

Trip leader led us north along a track hoping to come into Cardunia Soak from the north, but the track was getting thicker and thicker and we just didn’t have the time to cut branches, so we back tracked to the railway line and came up on a nice wide and graded road to Cardunia.  Where we encountered the camp for the fibre optic team, loads of caravans and generators set up.  The Cardunia Government dam was impressive to say the least.  Once a covered dam, and we believe was supplying the railway installation, way back when.  We followed the track to another walled dam.  Would be lovely to have more time to explore this rock.  It had a very well constructed divert wall around the rock.  We then visited the quarry that we believe was mined way back when to supply ballast for the railway construction. 

Cardunia Govt Dam.

The clouds were getting darker, we certainly worried about a wet camp that night.  Michelle spend the next 45 minutes looking for the perfect campsite, trying to stay away from the railway line.  Our last campfire for the trip.  The threatening skies gave us some great sunset colours.  As the night went on the dark clouds left us and we had perfect skies for star gazing.

Early up the next morning it was decided as the weather was rolling in, we’d head to Bruce Rock for our last night, stay in cabins and head home the next day. We arrived into Kalgoorlie and visited the Super Pit, as Barry had not seen this before.  This really is an amazing place.  Gavin left us here to visit friends and head to Esperance to see his son.  The rest of us fuelled up and headed out of town.  Trip leader took us to the “hidden shack” she’d visited back in June, co-ordinates that she got from a fellow explorer.  Everyone was amazed at how well this shack was hidden and how well set up it was.  Along with the dam they created off the rocks that fed their shack.  It’s not been used in a very long time.  The track in was great, slow and winding.  We stopped at a salt lake on the way out for lunch. 

Back on the GEH, we dropped south at Moorine Rock and headed for Bruce Rock, the clouds ahead of us were telling us we were definitely heading into rain.  And yep did it rain, it bucketed it down all the way Bruce Rock.  We checked into our comfy night digs and headed to the local pub for dinner.  Great feed!

We all met in the camp kitchen for breakfast, then headed home, hoping for more rain to clean the underside of our cars.

Trip over sadly. Time to plan the next one.